I hear a knock at my door just before midnight. Answering the door, I hear “Are you coming?” I rush to throw on clothes and hurry to the front door of the hotel. The Northern Lights have been spotted and we’re hoping to catch a glimpse. As our group heads to a location deemed safe by wildlife monitors, the excitement builds. The chance of seeing them right now are high, but you still need to be in the right place at the right time. We step off the bus and the dance begins—green, pink, purple and a kaleidoscope of colors swirl across the midnight sky. It makes a streak across the stars and then drops down like a curtain to cover the sky in the other direction. This is only the beginning of a weeklong trip in Churchill, Manitoba with Natural Habitat Adventures on a women-only departure, appropriately named “Women in the Wild”.

“I’m in great company with nine like-minded women who have traveled the world in awe of Mother Nature.”

I’m in great company with nine like-minded women who have traveled the world in awe of Mother Nature. From doing research in Uzbekistan, working in Angola and living in Nigeria, to traveling to Afghanistan and Rwanda, this group of women have answered the call of the wild many times over. Nat Hab’s commitment to conservation through exploration is a natural fit and attracts lovers of nature, stewards of sustainability, and those who are dedicated to empowering the local communities they visit. Over five days, we soaked up the Canadian Arctic sun as soul sisters, spotting polar bears from Zodiacs by morning, kayaking and paddleboarding with belugas in the afternoons, chasing the aurora by night, and learning from Indigenous Peoples and their stories throughout our adventures.

Belugas, baby!

While wildlife viewing can be a mix of fleeting moments or simply pure luck, one thing guaranteed when visiting Churchill in the summer is belugas. The town of Churchill, and our basecamp for the week, sits where the mouth of the Churchill River meets Hudson Bay. A contrast to the rest of the year in this very location, where you can experience the beauty of ice and the stillness it brings, the summer allows for the Arctic to come alive. Starting as early as June, pods of belugas flock to the Churchill River estuary through July and into August. Over 3,000 of these unique, white whales migrate to this area to give birth in the protected shallows of the river, feast on a variety of fish, and of course, do what belugas do best, socialize.

Their ability to use echolocation to communicate is fascinating, and with the help of a hydrophone, their sweet songs became the soundtrack of our Zodiac rides. Their unfused vertebrae give them a flexible neck, setting them apart from other whale species and contribute to their expressive demeanor. The opportunity to kayak or paddleboard at low tide put us at eye level with these curious creatures where we confirmed they are much more inquisitive about us, than we are about them.

Spirit of the Polar Bear

For many, the polar bear is a symbol of resilience and perseverance. And seeing polar bears in the summer is a testament to their adaptive nature. Aside from plenty of time spent resting in their dens, they pass their summer days lounging in the wildflowers, curling up in the sand, and cooling off in the water. We were lucky enough to spot multiple bears over a few days. First via private helicopter, everyone got a window seat to view these massive, majestic bears dozing away from above. Churchill has earned its title as “The Polar Bear Capital of the World” as its home to two-thirds of the world’s polar bears.

“Churchill has earned its title as “The Polar Bear Capital of the World” as its home to two-thirds of the world’s polar bears.”

By November, up to 1,000 bears can congregate along the coastline between the Churchill and Nelson Rivers, creating the largest polar bear gathering on the planet. Even in August, our Zodiac rides were abounding with sightings from the water. Our first encounter was a large male resting amongst fireweed, the bright purple and magenta flowers dotting the landscape this time of year. The second we discovered cooling off in the ice-cold water, occasionally submerging its head followed by shaking off his pristine white coat, practically modeling for the photography enthusiasts of the group.

A Common Thread

A group consensus revealed that we all came to witness the rare wildlife but walked away most enlightened and moved by the Indigenous stories. Our interactions with Churchill residents and introductions to the Métis and Inuit cultures gave unique insight to their history, traditions, struggles, and triumphs. It is clear that Natural Habitat Adventures has spent many years fostering relationships and strong connections with the local community, finding ways to protect their livelihoods while also teaching conservation and sustaining natural resources.

We listened to a local artist shedding light on Canada’s troubled past, giving us an introduction to how residential schools systematically oppressed Indigenous Peoples, the purpose of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, and how her journey to rediscover her Indigenous roots led her to create awareness of the inter-generational impacts. Like the polar bear, Churchill and its community is also instinctively resilient.

Female Empowerment

Natural Habitat Adventures immerses you in nature in a transformative way. When you add another layer to that, which is the camaraderie of traveling in the exclusive company of women, the sense of authenticity and connection is unmatched. The girl power was strong on our trip with the group consisting of mostly solo travelers ranging in ages from 35 to 81. Every day we were surrounded by the support of an uplifting environment and women who share a love for the planet and a curiosity for places we’ve never been. All ‘Women in the Wild’ adventures are led by the world’s top women expedition leaders.

“Every day we were surrounded by the support of an uplifting environment and women who share a love for the planet and a curiosity for places we’ve never been.”

Beyond just that, our activities were led with matriarchal power: we had a female bus driver, female Zodiac driver, female rover driver, female helicopter pilot, female paddleboard instructor, female ecologist, female yoga teacher, female local artist. I could go on. From Iceland to the Cotswolds, and South Africa to Maine, Nat Hab offers ‘Women in the Wild’ departures across the globe. With the average U.S. traveler being a 47-year-old woman and women making nearly 85% of all travel decisions, I think Nat Hab is on to something.

Ample Aurora

On one of our last nights, after a surprise visit to the beach for drinks (one of many special Nat Hab extra touches), we had dispersed back to our rooms, and I hear another knock at my door just before midnight. Answering the door, I hear “The lights are out again!” This time the Northern Lights were viewable from our hotel deck and the hues were radiating stronger than the first night. We lined up the deck chairs and laid back for the show. And it did not disappoint. The shape-shifting aurora turned a vibrant green. It transformed from pillars of light to sheets fanning out into shades of deep purple. As the sun is expected to reach a peak in its 11-year cycle, 2025 is prime to chase the Northern Lights which are predicted to be stronger, more frequent, and even easier to see from more southern locations. You don’t miss out on this ideal time to plan viewing opportunities.

One afternoon we danced our way across town to a museum and a local guide shouts out his window, “someone come tame these wild women”, knowing our expedition leader had led over 15 women-only itineraries with Nat Hab. But he couldn’t have got it more wrong. Some women aren’t meant to be tamed. They just need to run free, exploring our wild, wild world.