Into the Blu
By Karl Kannstadter
Into the Blu
By Karl Kannstadter
An expedition cruise on Aqua Blu through Indonesia’s wildest archipelago unites style, sustainability and serious marine life.
The images that the drone sends back to the controller are blurry, unusable. I forgot to wipe the lens of the condensation that had accumulated when I brought it from the cool, dry air of my cabin to the warmer, more humid air on the top deck of Aqua Blu. I’m aware that some people don’t appreciate these devices, particularly the sound they make. So take-off and landing are from the Sun Deck of the intimate (and supremely luxe) ship, and I have the drone 400 feet in the air, and almost a mile out, hovering over some of the 1,500+ islands in the region – the region being Raja Ampat, a pocket of Indonesia’s Western Papua province that has almost as many islets as it does people. It certainly has way more fish.
After a few more minutes in the air, the camera lens warms to the ambient temperature (80°F); the condensation clears and what I see on the color screen of the flight controller is nothing short of stunning. There are dozens of islands, dripping in that green that you only get in the tropics, which we’ve been cruising, swimming, diving and snorkeling through over the last couple of days.
“There are dozens of islands, dripping in that green that you only get in the tropics.”
In stark contrast to the emerald hues there are endless shades of blue, some so piercing that they remind me of the icebergs of Antarctica. Opaline notes of azure, aquamarine, teal and turquoise fade into each other and are framed by the white-sand beaches that encircle many of the small islands and rocky islets.
Country Connections
Aqua Expeditions operates the 30-guest Aqua Blu through this pocket of Indonesian paradise on a seasonal basis. It’s almost the antipodal point from my home in Toronto (the opposite side of the world), around 750 miles north of Darwin at the top of Australia.
Despite having been to more than 80 countries, this is my first time to Indonesia. It’s been high on my list – the temples of Borobudur, the beaches of Bali, and the dragons of Komodo (that sounds so cool to say!)… all of those will have to wait a bit longer, as this trip is to the far eastern end of the archipelago. It’s not an easy part of the country to reach – you really have to want to go. But it’s well worth the extra hours of travel, as the remoteness (and the exclusivity of no-one else around) is a huge part of the allure.
“The Indonesian archipelago is vast. Like 3,125 miles across vast.”
The Indonesian archipelago is vast. Like 3,125 miles across vast. That’s greater than the distance from Boston to Paris, Chicago to Reykjavík, or Los Angeles to Panama City (the one in Panama). And the geography of the country is fascinating. The archipelago is made up of 17,001 islands. They counted! All of Indonesia lies within the Ring of Fire, that string of volcanoes and sites of seismic activity around the edges of the Pacific Ocean. The country is home to 147 volcanoes, and 85% of them are active.
In addition to this, between Kalimantan on the island of Borneo and the forests of West Papua, Indonesia has some of the largest expanses of rainforests in the world. And where wildlife is concerned, Alfred Russel Wallace, a contemporary of Charles Darwin’s, discovered that in western Indonesia there are larger animals – Sumatran tigers, Komodo dragons, orangutans, Sumatran elephants – but in eastern Indonesia there are no large animals at all, and no mammals. Instead there are some cool marsupials (tree kangaroos!), hornbills and birds of paradise.
Indonesia in Focus
In all the vastness of Indonesia, what is so special about Raja Ampat that it would bring people from all over the world to this little corner of the country? The Pacific and Indian oceans meet here, and the strong currents that flow through the Dampier Straits result in the gentle waters of Raja Ampat concealing a treasure trove of 75% of all known species of coral, as well as 3,000 species of fish, giving it the highest level of marine biodiversity on the planet.
Indonesia was the third destination that Aqua Expeditions chose to operate in after their start in the Peruvian Amazon (Aria Amazon and Aqua Nera), and their expansion into the Mekong River (Aqua Mekong). The company has since expanded into Ecuador’s Galápagos islands as well, with Aqua Mare. In Indonesia, Aqua Blu is your luxury small-ship for the many itineraries that explore the waterways and island chains of the archipelago.
Ship Shape
Aqua Blu has a very interesting history. She was built in 1968 and christened the HMS Beagle, a British Royal Navy coastal survey ship. Decommissioned in 2002, she was converted to an elegant private yacht, and when she was purchased by Aqua Expeditions in 2019, she underwent a significant refurb to become the expedition yacht she is today. The cabins on board are the epitome of class. Spacious, elegantly designed, and equipped with modern amenities, they offer the comforts of a premium hotel… in the most remote parts of Indonesia. The culinary experience is equally impressive. Chefs craft exquisite meals, blending local flavors with international cuisine, ensuring a culinary journey on par with the expedition itself.
The caliber of the crew on Aqua Blu sets this voyage apart. Knowledgeable, attentive, and always eager to please, they ensure that every aspect of the journey is seamless. Their insights into the local cultures and ecosystems enrich the experience, making it not just a cruise but a journey of learning and discovery. And they have a personal knowledge of local cultures – there are 27 staff on board when we sail, hailing from all around Indonesia. Between them, they speak 20 different languages: Balinese, Javanese, Papuan, North Sumatran, South Sumatran…
“Knowledgeable, attentive, and always eager to please, they ensure that every aspect of the journey is seamless.”
One of the things that sets Aqua Expeditions apart is the all-inclusive nature of their voyages. The small-ship experience ensures personalized attention and an intimate atmosphere. Every aspect of the journey – from excursions to dining – is meticulously planned and included, allowing guests to immerse themselves fully in the experience without any concerns about hidden extra costs.
Daily Diversions
Speaking of excursions, on Aqua Blu they range from guided walks over mossy forest trails to see birds of paradise (we saw eight of them) to gentle stand-up paddleboarding, floating down a crystal clear cool jungle stream, to snorkeling amid vibrant coral reefs, easy kayaking in serene bays to world-class SCUBA diving. And again, it’s all included.
Don’t think for a minute that Aqua Blu is a live-aboard dive boat. As a friend of mine who has sailed on Aqua Blu put it “Aqua Blu is not a dive boat, not a live-aboard – she’s a luxury leisure yacht with a diving component. The non-divers are not an afterthought”. On both points she is spot on. At no time does this feel like a divers’ trip, and I made sure to experience non-SCUBA activities – with the dedicated snorkel tender, and a dedicated staff-member leading the guests, it feels every bit a snorkeling trip as a diving one.
Deep Dive
In the early ’90s I saw a ‘Learn to Dive’ program in the City of Toronto Continuing Education booklet. It covered basic theory and practice sessions in the pool, and we would be on our own to get the open water portion of the training done. It had to be completed within a certain timeframe, so it was a good excuse to go to Mexico in the winter. PADI Open Water Diver course completed, I was now able to strap on a mask and tank anywhere in the world. And for a few years I did exactly that. The Red Sea, the Great Barrier Reef and Fiji. These days I dive sporadically, when the opportunity presents itself: Aruba here, Galápagos there. But the diving in Raja Ampat is a standout.
I know that I said this isn’t a dive trip, but if you SCUBA dive, this is for you. Forget One Fish, Two Fish, Red Fish, Blue Fish – these are gardens of hard and soft corals as far as you can see, some varieties that look as though they were invented by Dr. Seuss, not to mention thousands of colorful reef fish, sea turtles, pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, and the tasselled wobbegong shark (a creature that you have to see to believe). Among so many other marine species.
Life on Board
On board, the expedition offers a range of activities to satisfy the cravings of leisure seekers as well. For those in need of relaxation, the Sun Deck provides a perfect vantage point to soak in the panoramic beauty of the archipelago. Evening sundowners are sublime from this perch. Those thirsting for knowledge can take a cooking class and learn to make Indonesia’s national condiment, sambal. There are documentaries to watch, books to peruse, lectures to attend, and a daily briefing summarizing the days’ activities – and the activities scheduled for the following day.
“It’s an invitation to experience luxury, adventure, and tranquility.”
Aqua Expeditions’ Raja Ampat voyage aboard Aqua Blu is more than just a trip; it’s an exploration into the heart of one of the world’s last travel frontiers. It’s an invitation to experience luxury, adventure, and tranquility in a setting so surreal, it must be seen to be believed. For those seeking a journey that marries the thrill of discovery with every creature comfort, this expedition is an unmissable experience.
I bank the drone around and bring it in for a landing. As I do, the ship weighs anchor and we begin to sail to our next destination. I can’t help myself, and I pilot the drone back up to the vantage point hundreds of feet above me, this time with Aqua Blu in sight. The ship and her wake are unmistakable in the viewfinder, as are the hundreds of small islands that dot the landscape like opaline gems. Aqua Blu doesn’t look out of place in this environment, but it’s obvious that she’s just visiting. Raja Ampat was here long before we arrived, and Raja Ampat will go on long after we stop visiting.
Ask an Expert
A conversation with Glenn Wappett, Cruise Director on Aqua Blu shares insider tips so you can get the most out of your travels.
Want to keep reading?